The Crisis of Trust on the Plate

“The trouble with restaurant criticism today is that everyone’s eating - but nobody’s tasting.” Jörg Zipprick, the Paris-based veteran critic and co-head of La Liste, recently reminded us that the crisis of gastronomy is mirrored, and perhaps magnified, by the crisis of those who claim to judge it. This is not to downplay the standing of Michelin and other established guides, which remain important compasses for gourmets and chefs alike. Rather, it is a cry for their transformative efforts in transparency, so that their authority can continue to inspire trust instead of erode it.